images courtesy PRINT magazine, all rights reserved, used with permission
We were charmed by a recent article in PRINT magazine, a conversation between Charlotte Beach and knitter Julie Steiner that featured miniature versions of some very recognizable sweaters, including a tiny representation of the Original Westerley, or as many know it, the Dude’s sweater in “The Big Lebowski.” She even knit a purple V-neck T-shirt to go under it!
images courtesy PRINT magazine, all rights reserved, used with permission
PRINT has graciously allowed us to share some of the photos that showcase Ms. Steiner’s art. We also want to share some of her wise words.
On miniatures:
I recently taught a class on miniatures in art history, and it’s so much fun to see that artists through all periods of history and all around the world, from so many disparate cultures, have had similar practices of taking objects common in their world and shrinking them to small scale… Miniatures change our physical experience of ourselves, and that is irresistible.
images courtesy PRINT magazine, all rights reserved, used with permission
On handcrafting:
Handcrafted objects hold human connections. They’re so warm and rich in comparison to manufactured products. They have soul. As an example, I love handmade pottery, and most of my mugs are handmade, many of them by people I know personally…they made something useful to me, something incorporated into my daily life for years afterward, and it makes my life feel stitched into a larger community, in both literal and figurative ways.
“Handcrafted items hold human connections.”
Isn’t that the truth? We feel like we should hang that on the wall here at the Pendleton Woolen Mill Store! Thank you to PRINT magazine for generously allowing us to share these images and quotes. You can read more, and see many more sweaters, including examples worn by Princess Diana and Charlie Brown, at the article. You can also read more about her technique and materials for making these miniature marvels.
Rali Burleson, director of the Arizona Make It With Wool (MIWW) contest and good friend of the Pendleton brand, wrote to us recently to share an outfit she created around a vintage Gambler shirt.
Photo by Barbara Trainor.
Her letter read:
I am enclosing photos of my vintage Pendleton Gambler shirt. My shirt may be older than the 1940s. The shirt is grey with bronze-colored topstitching and closes with bronze-colored pearlized buttons. It is a size small (14½). It is in pristine condition with little to no wear. The inside is immaculate! I made a beautiful bronze-colored skirt, using Pendleton wool, to wear with the shirt.
I developed a unique skirt closure using a vintage money clip with a bronze ram’s head on the front. I wear a silk Pendleton scarf as an accessory.
Photo by Barbara Trainor.
We love the outfit she’s created, especially since it uses Pendleton wool fabric.
What About That Skirt?
Rali says this about the beautiful skirt she made to go with the Gambler shirt.
I used a vintage (1989) McCall’s pattern (4408) for my skirt.
Photo courtesy Rali Burleson
The skirt has a waistband with an elasticized back…
Photo by Barbara Trainor.
…side seam pockets with a side pocket opening, and front pleats.
Photo courtesy Rali Burleson
The skirt fabric is a very lightweight wool flannel by Pendleton. The creative closure is a vintage money clip depicting a ram’s head.
Photo courtesy Rali Burleson
It is a perfect compliment to my wool skirt and Make It With Wool.
Photo by Barbara Trainor.
I am proud to say, “I made it myself with wool.”
Dress well. Dress in WOOL!
The skirt is a beauty, but we can’t forget the shirt.
After some investigation, we discovered that her Gambler shirt is actually a men’s shirt in its smallest neck size; 14 ½ . It was made in women’s sizes in 1936, but in Umatilla Wool, not gabardine.
The Western Gambler was introduced somewhere between 1934 – 1939. The white label gives us a clue as to the age, as the label changed from blue/gold to white around 1940ish, and remained white until the final offering in Fall 1962, so Rali’s shirt was made sometime between 1940 and 1962.
Rali is wearing a shirt that could be 80+ years old!
Photo by Barbara Trainor.
Looking good with jeans, Rali!
This shirt was made in a fine worsted wool gabardine. Here is more copy from 1939, specifically about the fine Pendleton wool fabric.
PENDLETON GABARDINES – “Pendleton Gabardine Shirts are made from an exclusive Pendleton fabric – an 8-ounce mill shrunk worsted gabardine. The luxurious fabric is available in the distinctive models – the Sportsman, the Western Gambler, and the Sports Shirt Model, providing a gabardine garment for all sports, spectator, or leisure wear.”
Rali’s shirt shows how well that fabric endures – the magic of wool.
Western Wonders
Rali’s Western look is perfect for this month, when our minds turn to western style in general. August is when we gear up for the Pendleton Round-Up, in Pendleton, Oregon. Thousands of rodeo-goers visit our store, shop our Western (and non-Western) apparel, and take mill tours. These wonderful photos of Rali have us ready to hit the road, see the rodeo, and Let’er Buck!
Photo by Barbara Trainor.
If she’s inspired you, visit us to see our range of exquisite wool fabrics; from jacquards to gabardines, whatever strikes your fancy. And a HUGE thank you to Barbara Trainor Photography for her creative work with Rali (and for traveling to such an amazing location). We love these photos!
Read more about the Make It With Wool competition here: MIWW
Pendleton Woolen Mills is one of the biggest sponsors of the Make It With Wool competition (MIWW). We donate a $1,000 scholarship to the National MIWW Finals Junior Division Winner, and provide deeply discounted fabric to contestants, as well as gratis yardage to directors for promotion uses.
But what exactly is the MIWW competition about?
MIWW began in 1947 when wives of sheep owners started the contest to promote wool. The annual sewing competition promotes wool fabrics, yarns and fibers, and is sponsored by the American Wool Council and the American Sheep Industry and American Sheep Industry Women.
MIWW Today
The contest is open to participants from pre-teen through adult, and begins at the state level. Contestants select, construct, and model their own garment or outfit made from at least 60 percent wool. Two state winners are chosen to move on to the national competition.
Rali Burleson (pictured above with a young winner) is the Director of Arizona Make It With Wool. Above, Rali is wearing a gorgeous wool jumpsuit she created for her emcee duties. She also shared photos that showcase the jumpsuit’s outstanding interior workmanship.
Rali says, “Here’s the lowdown on the jumpsuit: It’s Butterick 6130, made from Pendleton burgundy wool crepe. The standout features are the bateau neckline, bias stand-up collar, midriff yoke, gathered bodice, back zipper, and wide legs. It’s loose-fitting through the bust and semifitted through the hips. I’ve lined the bodice and cap sleeves with Bemberg rayon and used various couture techniques, including a top-stitched placket zipper, bound armhole seams, muslin interfacing, Hong Kong finishes, and a figure eight hem stitch.”
Some Vintage Fun
Rali is the unofficial Make It With Wool historian. She is also a collector of vintage patterns and other sewing-related items. This past February, one of her contacts sent the brochure shown below. Said Rali, “She knows I work with the wool industry and periodically sends me vintage wool memorabilia. I am on the hunt for the Butterick patterns depicted in the brochure and four yards of vintage Pendleton plaid wool in that design.”
Above, enjoy the winning looks from the 1967 – 68 Make It With Wool competition, called the “Make It Yourself With Wool” competition back in the day.cover of the program for the 1967-68 competition, from the Pendleton Archives
And a more modern winner, Madi Dunning, who won the 76th National MIWW competition!
MAKE IT WITH WOOL – Saratoga Sun article
Madi Dunning Reigns at National Make It With Wool Contest
The 76th annual ‘National Make It With Wool Contest’ was held in Denver CO in mid-January. Contestants from 25 states competed in creating wearable garments using fabric or yarn that is at least 60% wool fiber. They can sew, knit, crochet or felt the clothing that is then judged for construction quality and fashion. Madi, competing in the Junior division, representing ages 13-16, was selected as the National Junior Winner. She also won the Top Junior Construction Award, and second place in the Machine Embroidery category. Her series of major awards at the MIWW also netted her several prizes, including a $1,000 scholarship from Pendleton Woolen Mills and a $500 award from the governing organization.
Madi Dunning, winner of the 2024 MIWW competition in her Pendleton wool dress. Photo courtesy The Saratoga Sun, all rights reserved
Madi Dunning is the first person from Wyoming to win a top prize in the Junior or Senior Divisions. Her path to the national title began by competing in the Carbon County district contest, then moving on to the state level held in Casper, before competing at the national event. She will now serve as Junior Ambassador for a year, which will include attending next year’s event being held in Scottsdale AZ in January 2025. Madi has studied sewing under Lynda Johnson for the past seven years. She previously competed in the Preteen Division for four years. She also won the Junior Division at the Wyoming State Contest the last three years. Ms. Johnson notes “Each year, she increased her sewing and modeling skills.” This year Madi’s entry was a tailored green and black coat accented with machine embroidery on the front lapels and back collar and complemented by a black plaid fitted dress.
More Information
Are you interested in learning more about Make It With Wool? Are you possibly even considering entering? You can find more information here: Make It With Wool
We received a very touching letter from Marilyn Heaven, and we want to share her story with our crafting and sewing fans. What follows has been lightly edited. – Editor
Dear Pendleton;
My husband of 57 years (together 60) passed away suddenly on July 30, 2023. He was quite the Pendleton Fan. We even have a Pendleton Blanket for our bed. The only thing he wore in the winter was his Pendleton Wool Shirts. We traveled a lot and he picked up shirts along the way.
After his death, I went to his closet and wondered what I would do with these beautiful Pendleton shirts. Most of his other clothing had gone to Goodwill, but these shirts were special. I discussed it with my kids. We first thought of having pillows made, but then my daughter heard from a fellow teacher about a nearby quilter named Dianna Kogut (“Sew Lovely Quilting” on Facebook). So we talked with her, and then started exploring designs online.
I knew I did not want the typical square so I finally decided on a design made with rectangular pieces. I took Wally’s 25 shirts to the quilter, where we decided on a wool filing and a cotton back.
Wally’s Pendleton Shirts – he was a fan of the Trail Shirt!
Diana even incorporated the shirt pockets into the six quilts. I had hoped to incorporate the elbow patches, but that did not work because of the size. I used Wally’s jeans for the memory note on the back of the quilts.
text transcribed below
The construction took several months. Our goal was mid-December as surprise Christmas gifts for my two children and three grandchildren, and of course I kept one for myself.
When the quilts were ready, I put each quilt in a special Christmas box with a note that said:
You have Grandpa’s DNA in your body, you have love for him in your heart, memories of him in your brain and now you have something of his to keep forever.
Love , Grandma
Note: Kleenex Included in this envelope.
I also told them DRY CLEAN ONLY! So that’s the story of those 25 Pendleton Shirts that belonged to my hubby Walter Heaven, 1/6/45 – 7/30/23. This was a very emotional project because the family can remember him in all these shirts. I throw my own quilt over me on chilly nights and say “Wally, keep me warm.”
The 1949 Jacket, based on the Pendleton 49’er Jacket
One of Pendleton’s all-time favorite garments in the 49er Jacket, which debuted in 1949 as part of our first Women’s Sportswear collection. You can read about it here: the 49er
It has been called the 49’er, the ’49er, and the 49er (that apostrophe migrates like a songbird), and it’s a true Pendleton icon. But what do you call the ones you sew for yourself? That one is called the 1949 Jacket.
Patterns Available
We currently stock patterns for the 1949 Jacket, so you can make your own. We have been asked to post the back of the pattern for our 1949 Jackets in Plus and Regular sizes. So here they are!
back of pattern for the Plus 1949 jacket
back of pattern for the Misses size 1949 jacket
We hope this helps!
Visit us or call for more information
The patterns are available at the Heritage Mill Store in Salem, Oregon, and at the Woolen Mill Store in Portland.
Pendleton was excited to help with a recent feature in Oregon Home Magazine, working with Miller Paint to showcase the power of earthy neutrals. According to Apartment Therapy, “A neutral is a color without much intensity or saturation—a color that’s lacking in color, if you will, which generally goes with everything. Think tans, beiges, ivories, creams, whites, blacks, and grays.” Oregon Home included more soothing earth tones, while keeping the palette gentle.
Our Home Store staff was part this project (thanks, team!), bringing their Pendleton design expertise to play in choosing blankets that show the softer side of Pendleton patterns.
According to the feature:
This season’s color palettes draw inspiration from the ground up. Earthy is in. “Whites are shifting from bright and stark to earthy tones touched with raw umber,” says Puji Sherer, director of color marketing for Portland-based Miller Paint. “Grays are giving way to gentle browns and beiges. Even though Pendleton designs are typically very angular and dynamic, the subdued color palette in this one makes it easy to live with in any interior environment.” Oregon Home collaborated with Miller Paint and Pendleton Home on this design for a cozy, on-trend gathering space.
We agree. The power of this palette is soothing and understated, but still strong. Our geometric patterns allow for all kinds of subtle colorplay.
Some of our favorite patterns tie in with this palette.
The article featured three beautiful Pendleton blankets; Sandhills, White Sands, and Wyeth Trail. But we have some gorgeous fabrics in-stock in this palette.
Spirit of the Peoples Small RepeatBasket Maker TonalPacific CrestHarding Tonal Falcon Cove Accessory-weight
For a limited time, we are running a promotion on our wool selvage; buy one/get one free. This offer is “while supplies last.” If you have certain fabric weights or colors in mind, call us and we will do our very best to get you taken care of.
Tag us on Instagram!
Show us your finished wool selvage rug and tag us on Instagram by May 31, 2021:
We are offering 50% off select pet beds while supplies last.
Selection is varied, and limited to stock on hand in-store.
We’re Open
We’re following all state mandates, including social distancing, limiting capacity, and face masks. Curbside pickup available! Phone and email orders also accepted.
We are delighted to see our Black/Grey Plaid wool fabric in the new Capsule Studio: PLUSH collection by SewDaily. The Capsule Studio concept is about developing (sewing) a wardrobe around the look and direction provided by SewDaily, for your own interpretation and customization.
This particular pattern collection is built around textured coziness, with winter garments in soft, warm fabrics. It’s especially right for a sewist who wants a mix and match look. Wool, which sews beautifully, is featured throughout.
We love seeing our wool in pants! Wool makes beautiful pants that are warm and cozy while still being breathable, one of wool’s amazing properties. As you know, most Pendleton plaids can be dressed up or down. The featured black and white plaid works with any accent color you choose, from warm neutrals to bold jewel tones.
Fabric and Patterns
This fabric is 30% off during our September fabric sale through the end of the month (while supplies last). Check out our offerings in person or on the Fabrics tab. You can purchase and download the collection at this link: Capsule Studio PLUSH
We thought you’d enjoy this before and after rocker that one of our staff members had done. This sweet rocker has been in her family for some time, and was ready for a refresh.
After
She chose our heavy weight Shonto blanket fabric in the Wheatlands colorway. It gives the chair a whole new life. This chair makes a great accent piece in any room. What a great way to preserve a piece of family history!
We Are Open!
We are open following all state mandates, including monitoring social distancing, limiting capacity, and wearing face masks. Curbside pickup is available!
Rali Burleson, Arizona State Director of the Make It With Wool Contest, sent us a photo of herself in a dress sewn from a vintage (1949) Claire McCardell design pattern. She expects to “get a lot of mileage” out of the dress: she is able to wear it year-round in Arizona because it’s made from 100% AirLoom Merino wool (formerly known as Sir Pendleton fabric). This is a year-sound textile that is, as she says, “almost tissue-paper thin.”
The sewing process
I converted the gathers to pleats (an engineering feat in itself) and used couture techniques throughout (sew-in silk organza interfacing, Hong Kong finishes, stays along the neckline and bodice sides, hand-applied collar and invisible zipper, hand-knotted thread eyes, and more).
Accessorizing
For the vintage look, I bought a navy cardigan with ¾ length sleeved-rounded toe pumps, and a structured handbag. For the evening look, I bought a navy satin border silk chiffon scarf to wear as a shawl, pointed-toe suede pumps, and a metallic box clutch.
Admiration for the seamstresses of yore!
I concluded that seamstresses of yore were of a different cut of cloth (pun intended). The vintage patterns I love so much are not for the faint of heart! And to think everyone made their own clothes, children’s clothes, household linens (quilts, embroidered tablecloths, pillowcases, aprons, and so on). Whew!
Would You Like to Enter?
Here is the new and improved National MIWW website: https://makeitwithwool.com/state-contests
Contests are run at the state level, and deadline dates (mostly this Fall) are listed by state. This is a great time to explore your state’s contest, especially with so many students expected to be home based this Fall. And don’t forget our September apparel fabric sale!
