Tag: MIWW

projects

Wonders of Wool in a Shirt and Skirt

pendletonwoolenmills

Rali’s Gambler Outfit

Rali Burleson, director of the Arizona Make It With Wool (MIWW) contest and good friend of the Pendleton brand, wrote to us recently to share an outfit she created around a vintage Gambler shirt.

Rali Burleson in a Pendleton Gambler shirt, and a skirt she sewed from Pendleton Wool. Photo by Barbara Trainor.
Photo by Barbara Trainor.

Her letter read:

I am enclosing photos of my vintage Pendleton Gambler shirt. My shirt may be older than the 1940s. The shirt is grey with bronze-colored topstitching and closes with bronze-colored pearlized buttons. It is a size small (14½). It is in pristine condition with little to no wear. The inside is immaculate! I made a beautiful bronze-colored skirt, using Pendleton wool, to wear with the shirt.

I developed a unique skirt closure using a vintage money clip with a bronze ram’s head on the front. I wear a silk Pendleton scarf as an accessory.

Rali Burleson in a Pendleton Gambler shirt, and a skirt she sewed from Pendleton Wool, accented by a Pendleton silk scarf. Photo by Barbara Trainor.
Photo by Barbara Trainor.

We love the outfit she’s created, especially since it uses Pendleton wool fabric.

What About That Skirt?

Rali says this about the beautiful skirt she made to go with the Gambler shirt.

I used a vintage (1989) McCall’s pattern (4408) for my skirt.

Cover of a vintage McCall's skirt pattern.
Photo courtesy Rali Burleson

The skirt has a waistband with an elasticized back…

Rali Burleson in a Pendleton Gambler shirt, and a skirt she sewed from Pendleton Wool. Photo by Barbara Trainor.
Photo by Barbara Trainor.

…side seam pockets with a side pocket opening, and front pleats.

Photo of the skirt tucks and pockets. Photo by Rali Burleson.
Photo courtesy Rali Burleson

The skirt fabric is a very lightweight wool flannel by Pendleton. The creative closure is a vintage money clip depicting a ram’s head.

detail photo of skirt with a ram's head money clip. Photo by Rali Burleson.
Photo courtesy Rali Burleson

It is a perfect compliment to my wool skirt and Make It With Wool.

Rali Burleson in a Pendleton Gambler shirt, and a skirt she sewed from Pendleton Wool. Photo by Barbara Trainor.
Photo by Barbara Trainor.

I am proud to say, “I made it myself with wool.”

Dress well. Dress in WOOL!

The skirt is a beauty, but we can’t forget the shirt.

1959 ad for the Pendleton Gambler Shirt that ran in "The Dude Rancher"
Photo courtesy Rali Burleson
inner collar photo by Rali Burleson
inner collar photo by Rali Burleson
sleeve detail photo by Rali Burleson

After some investigation, we discovered that her Gambler shirt is actually a men’s shirt in its smallest neck size; 14 ½ . It was made in women’s sizes in 1936, but in Umatilla Wool, not gabardine.

The Western Gambler was introduced somewhere between 1934 – 1939. The white label gives us a clue as to the age, as the label changed from blue/gold to white around 1940ish, and remained white until the final offering in Fall 1962, so Rali’s shirt was made sometime between 1940 and 1962.

Rali is wearing a shirt that could be 80+ years old!

Rali Burleson in a Pendleton Gambler shirt with jeans. Photo by Barbara Trailor.
Photo by Barbara Trainor.

Looking good with jeans, Rali!

This shirt was made in a fine worsted wool gabardine. Here is more copy from 1939, specifically about the fine Pendleton wool fabric.

PENDLETON GABARDINES – “Pendleton Gabardine Shirts are made from an exclusive Pendleton fabric – an 8-ounce mill shrunk worsted gabardine.  The luxurious fabric is available in the distinctive models – the Sportsman, the Western Gambler, and the Sports Shirt Model, providing a gabardine garment for all sports, spectator, or leisure wear.”

Rali’s shirt shows how well that fabric endures – the magic of wool.

Western Wonders

Rali’s Western look is perfect for this month, when our minds turn to western style in general. August is when we gear up for the Pendleton Round-Up, in Pendleton, Oregon. Thousands of rodeo-goers visit our store, shop our Western (and non-Western) apparel, and take mill tours. These wonderful photos of Rali have us ready to hit the road, see the rodeo, and Let’er Buck!

Rali Burleson in a western outfit, Pendleton Gambler shirt and sweeping skirt made in Pendleton wool. Photo by Barbara Trainor.
Photo by Barbara Trainor.

If she’s inspired you, visit us to see our range of exquisite wool fabrics; from jacquards to gabardines, whatever strikes your fancy. And a HUGE thank you to Barbara Trainor Photography for her creative work with Rali (and for traveling to such an amazing location). We love these photos!

Read more about the Make It With Wool competition here: MIWW

Come see us!

Portland/Milwaukie: Pendleton Woolen Mill Store:

  • 8500 SE Mcloughlin Blvd, Portland, OR 97222
  • WoolenMillStore@penwool.com
  • 503-535-5786

Open Monday – Saturday, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. · Sunday 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Salem area: Pendleton Heritage Mill Store (at the Willamette Heritage Center)

  • 1313 Mill Street SE, Suite 110, Salem, OR 97301
  • 503-990-7544
  • Open Tuesday – Saturday 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.
projects

Make It With Wool – Part of Pendleton, Yesterday and Today

pendletonwoolenmills

Make It With Wool (MIWW) History

Pendleton Woolen Mills is one of the biggest sponsors of the Make It With Wool competition (MIWW). We donate a $1,000 scholarship to the National MIWW Finals Junior Division Winner, and provide deeply discounted fabric to contestants, as well as gratis yardage to directors for promotion uses.

But what exactly is the MIWW competition about?

MIWW began in 1947 when wives of sheep owners started the contest to promote wool. The annual sewing competition promotes wool fabrics, yarns and fibers, and is sponsored by the American Wool Council and the American Sheep Industry and American Sheep Industry Women.

MIWW Today

The contest is open to participants from pre-teen through adult, and begins at the state level. Contestants select, construct, and model their own garment or outfit made from at least 60 percent wool. Two state winners are chosen to move on to the national competition.

Rali Burleson and a young contestant in the MIWW contest. Photo courtesy Rali Burleson

Rali Burleson (pictured above with a young winner) is the Director of Arizona Make It With Wool. Above, Rali is wearing a gorgeous wool jumpsuit she created for her emcee duties. She also shared photos that showcase the jumpsuit’s outstanding interior workmanship.

Jumpsuit interior
photo courtesy Rali Burleson
Jumpsuit interior
photo courtesy Rali Burleson

Rali says, “Here’s the lowdown on the jumpsuit: It’s Butterick 6130, made from Pendleton burgundy wool crepe. The standout features are the bateau neckline, bias stand-up collar, midriff yoke, gathered bodice, back zipper, and wide legs. It’s loose-fitting through the bust and semifitted through the hips. I’ve lined the bodice and cap sleeves with Bemberg rayon and used various couture techniques, including a top-stitched placket zipper, bound armhole seams, muslin interfacing, Hong Kong finishes, and a figure eight hem stitch.”

Some Vintage Fun

Rali is the unofficial Make It With Wool historian. She is also a collector of vintage patterns and other sewing-related items. This past February, one of her contacts sent the brochure shown below. Said Rali, “She knows I work with the wool industry and periodically sends me vintage wool memorabilia. I am on the hunt for the Butterick patterns depicted in the brochure and four yards of vintage Pendleton plaid wool in that design.”

brochure photo of the winning looks from the 1967 – 68 Make It With Wool competition, called the “Make It Yourself With Wool” competition back in the day
Above, enjoy the winning looks from the 1967 – 68 Make It With Wool competition, called the
“Make It Yourself With Wool” competition back in the day.
cover of the program for the 1967-68 competition, from the Pendleton Archives
cover of the program for the 1967-68 competition, from the Pendleton Archives

And a more modern winner, Madi Dunning, who won the 76th National MIWW competition!

MAKE IT WITH WOOL – Saratoga Sun article

Madi Dunning Reigns at National Make It With Wool Contest

The Saratoga Sun – Feb 1 2024

The 76th annual ‘National Make It With Wool Contest’ was held in Denver CO in mid-January. Contestants from 25 states competed in creating wearable garments using fabric or yarn that is at least 60% wool fiber. They can sew, knit, crochet or felt the clothing that is then judged for construction quality and fashion. Madi, competing in the Junior division, representing ages 13-16, was selected as the National Junior Winner. She also won the Top Junior Construction Award, and second place in the Machine Embroidery category. Her series of major awards at the MIWW also netted her several prizes, including a $1,000 scholarship from Pendleton Woolen Mills and a $500 award from the governing organization.

Madi Dunning, winner of the 2024 MIWW competition in her Pendleton wool dress. Photo courtesy The Saratoga Sun, all rights reserved
Madi Dunning, winner of the 2024 MIWW competition in her Pendleton wool dress.
Photo courtesy The Saratoga Sun, all rights reserved

Madi Dunning is the first person from Wyoming to win a top prize in the Junior or Senior Divisions. Her path to the national title began by competing in the Carbon County district contest, then moving on to the state level held in Casper, before competing at the national event. She will now serve as Junior Ambassador for a year, which will include attending next year’s event being held in Scottsdale AZ in January 2025. Madi has studied sewing under Lynda Johnson for the past seven years. She previously competed in the Preteen Division for four years. She also won the Junior Division at the Wyoming State Contest the last three years. Ms. Johnson notes “Each year, she increased her sewing and modeling skills.” This year Madi’s entry was a tailored green and black coat accented with machine embroidery on the front lapels and back collar and complemented by a black plaid fitted dress.

More Information

Are you interested in learning more about Make It With Wool? Are you possibly even considering entering? You can find more information here: Make It With Wool

Portland/Milwaukie: Pendleton Woolen Mill Store:

  • 8500 SE Mcloughlin Blvd, Portland, OR 97222
  • WoolenMillStore@penwool.com
  • 503-535-5786
  • Phone and email orders are welcome!

Open Monday – Saturday, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. · Sunday 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Salem area: Pendleton Heritage Mill Store (at the Willamette Heritage Center) for apparel, accessories, fabric cuts, wool crafting supplies, and more

  • 1313 Mill Street SE, Suite 110, Salem, OR 97301
  • 503-990-7544
  • Open Tuesday – Saturday 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.
Fabric rolls at the Woolen Mill Store in Portland/Milwaukie Oregon
projects

Make it with Wool

pendletonwoolenmills

Make it with Wool

Rali Burleson, Arizona State Director of the Make It With Wool Contest, sent us a photo of herself in a dress sewn from a vintage (1949) Claire McCardell design pattern. She expects to “get a lot of mileage” out of the dress: she is able to wear it year-round in Arizona because it’s made from 100% AirLoom Merino wool (formerly known as Sir Pendleton fabric). This is a year-sound textile that is, as she says, “almost tissue-paper thin.”

The sewing process

I converted the gathers to pleats (an engineering feat in itself) and used couture techniques throughout (sew-in silk organza interfacing, Hong Kong finishes, stays along the neckline and bodice sides, hand-applied collar and invisible zipper, hand-knotted thread eyes, and more).

Accessorizing

For the vintage look, I bought a navy cardigan with ¾ length sleeved-rounded toe pumps, and a structured handbag. For the evening look, I bought a navy satin border silk chiffon scarf to wear as a shawl, pointed-toe suede pumps, and a metallic box clutch.

Admiration for the seamstresses of yore!

I concluded that seamstresses of yore were of a different cut of cloth (pun intended). The vintage patterns I love so much are not for the faint of heart! And to think everyone made their own clothes, children’s clothes, household linens (quilts, embroidered tablecloths, pillowcases, aprons, and so on). Whew!

Would You Like to Enter?
Here is the new and improved National MIWW website: https://makeitwithwool.com/state-contests
Contests are run at the state level, and deadline dates (mostly this Fall) are listed by state. This is a great time to explore your state’s contest, especially with so many students expected to be home based this Fall. And don’t forget our September apparel fabric sale! 
promotions, wool

Making Connections with Pendleton Wool

pendletonwoolenmills

The Wonders of Wool

Here at the Woolen Mill Store, we are passionate about wool and its properties; durability, sustainability, ease of tailoring, and beauty. That’s why we love the Make it With Wool competition. We’re also passionate about the Sewing and Stitchery Expo in Puyallup, Washington that happens each year (shown in time lapse, above). With the displays, booths, classes, and wonderful conversations we have there, we learn as much as we teach.

Creative Customers

That’s why we were delighted when a Make It With Wool contestant dropped by our booth to show us the entry she made with wool purchased from our booth last year. She graciously allowed us to share these photos of her creation: a pieced coat with a unique back zipper and beautiful tonal embellishment.

Isn’t this coat a work of art?

Safety Concerns and More

We understand that many of you are home right now, whether you are working from home, or home with your children due to school closures, or, sadly, in quarantine. We want you to know that we can ship directly to your house. Pre-shop the fabrics on the fabric tab, and then call 1-866-865-9285 or email us at  WoolenMillStore@penwool.com for help.

Pendleton Woolen Mill Store

8500 SE McLoughlin Blvd. Portland, OR 97222

(503) 535-5786 • http://www.woolenmill.store • WoolenMiIIStore@penwool.com

Store Hours: Monday-Saturday, 10am – 5:30pm • Sunday 11am – 4pm

projects

Make It With Wool Winner & Pendleton Tartan on the cover of Threads magazine!

pendletonwoolenmills

Cover of a sewing magazine called "Threads" featuring three dresses on display forms, that won the Make it With Wool contest. one dress was made with Pendleton Hunting Tartan fabric.

Make it with Wool

Kelsey Clear of Niles, Michigan, who learned to sew when she was only six years old, recently won First Runner Up honors in the Make It With Wool contest–and she did it with Pendleton wool. But not just any Pendleton wool! Kelsey sewed her winning look with our very own tartan, as registered with the Scottish Tartans Society.

Photo of a certificate from the Council of Scottish Tartans Society, officially recognizing the Pendleton Hunting tartan. Dated July 20, 1998.

Pendleton Hunting Tartan

Pendleton Woolen Mills registered the official Pendleton Hunting Tartan with the Scottish Tartans Society in 1999. It was created to commemorate Pendleton’s roots in the Pacific Northwest and the many generations of family that have overseen Pendleton’s business through the years. The official company tartan also salutes the British Isles origin of Pendleton’s weaving heritage, thanks to our founder, Thomas Kay.

And yes, that’s the very tartan bordering the certificate. For a closer look at the winning look, which includes more than just that adorable shirtwaist dress, pick up a copy of Threads today–we have it in stock at the store. Perhaps you’ll be inspired to sew your own project with Pendleton Hunting Tartan. We would love to see it!